Maui - Road to Hana - Days 5-7
We spent 11-days (without the kiddos) in Maui. We previously covered Days 1-4 which were spent enjoying Upcountry Maui. Many do the Road to Hana in a day, but we loved slowing down and experiencing this journey across a few days. The next three days took us on one of the most iconic drives in the world along the Road to Hana. Here’s how Days 5-7 unfolded.
Day 5: Road to Hana Begins
Mile Marker 0 on Hana Hwy
We departed Kula around 7:30 AM to start our Road to Hana adventure! But first…coffee. We stopped at Vida by Sip Me in Makawao for lattes and pastries. It was the fuel we needed for the twists, turns, and jaw-dropping beauty that lay ahead.
The Road to Hana is more than just a scenic drive. It’s an iconic 60+ mile journey with over 600 curves, 50+ one-lane bridges, and countless moments where you’ll want to stop and say, “Did you see that?!?!” While the Road to Hana is an iconic road trip, it’s also a lifeline for local residents who use it daily to get to and from their homes. That means it's important to be respectful. That means pulling over only in the pull-offs to let faster traffic get through, not blocking traffic, and always prioritizing safety over the perfect photo. We chose to drive it ourselves rather than take a tour because Amanda tends to get carsick. Winding roads plus a middle seat in a tour bus didn’t sound like a good combo. We used Shaka Guide again, which gave us turn-by-turn directions, history, stories, and even music, so it felt like we had a friendly local guide riding along.
Typically, Twin Falls at Wailele Farm is the first stop for most folks on the Road to Hana. However, we were starting the Road to Hana on the first Saturday of the Month. On the first Saturday of the month, they have Kama’aina (local residents) exclusive days. We didn’t want to miss out on Twin Falls, so we visited Twin Falls on Day 3 of our trip. You should prioritize visiting Twin Falls because it’s a series of beautiful waterfalls and pools nestled in the tropical forest. Parking at the Falls is $10 but they only have 55 parking spots. Since it is a popular stop, the parking lot can fill up fast, especially in the morning. We cruised on past Twin Falls, heading about 8 miles down the road to our first stop.
Our first stop was the Garden of Eden Arboretum. It is 26 acres with about 2 miles of walking trails filled with vibrant tropical flowers, bamboo forests, and rainbow eucalyptus. It costs $20 per adult to visit the Arboretum, and we thought it was worth taking a peaceful stroll around the grounds. To avoid the crowds, they recommend visiting when they first open (8:00 AM) or after 2:00 PM. We arrived about 9:00 AM, and we had no problem parking plus the grounds didn’t feel crowded. We spent about an hour wandering along the winding trails, marveling at a 100-year-old mango tree, and checking out the lookout point for Puohokamoa Falls. While the waterfall was still a bit in the distance, the panoramic view was exceptional. You could even see the winding Hana Hwy snaking past the falls. From another viewpoint, you can see Keopuka Rock. This is a sea stack that is famous for being featured in Jurassic Park as they arrive on the island (Daaa daaa, da-da-da daa daa...).
A few miles down the road, we pulled in the Kaumahina State Wayside Park for a pit stop. It is one of the stops with restrooms along the Hana Hwy. More importantly, the park also offers sweeping coastline views, including a stunning overlook of the Ke‘anae Peninsula. After taking in the panoramic view, we knew we had to get a closer look. So we hopped back in the car and made our way down to explore the peninsula up close.
On our way to the peninsula, we stopped at Aunty Sandy’s for her famous banana bread. It is worth the hype. We got two loaves (one for an immediate snack and one for later). Warm, soft, and full of flavor, it’s the perfect treat for the Road to Hana.
As we snacked on our warm banana bread, we finished the drive to the Ke‘anae Peninsula. The Peninsula was formed by lava flows from Haleakalā that created a dramatic black rock coastline. We spent some time exploring the lava rocks and watching the waves crashing against the shore. This area was once an ancient Hawaiian taro farming village. It's still home to taro fields and a historic stone church built in 1856 that survived a devastating tsunami in the 1940s.
As we headed back out on the Hana Hwy we were needing a snack because we were planning a late lunch. We stopped at Halfway to Hana to grab some snack and drinks. I had to pick-up my new favorite “energy bar”, Spam musubi.
We were lucky to get a parking spot at Wailua Valley State Wayside Park. There are only 5 or 6 parking spots. If you take the stairs to the top, the lookout provides excellent 360-degree views of the valley, coasts, mountains, and Koʻolau Gap. You can see lush taro in the valley and distant waterfalls amongst the rainforest. It is easily missed, but a great short stop.
We drove another 20 mins on the winding and narrow Hana Hwy, enjoying the waterfalls along the way like Upper Waikani Falls. We didn’t stop at these spots, but we definitely appreciated them from the road. Our next stop was Pua'a Ka'a State Wayside Park. The park offers a chance to stretch your legs, see a few waterfalls, and use the restroom!
It was a little after 1:00 PM when we reached Nahiku Marketplace to grab lunch. There are a variety of little shops, vendors, and a few dining options at the marketplace. We got huli huli chicken from Hawa Hawaiian BBQ. We also enjoyed tropical smoothies and a fresh coconut cracked open on the spot.
Another 20 mins down the road, we finally made it to Hana! We relaxed at Hana Bay Beach Park, admired the statue of Queen Ka’ahumanu, and then soaked in the serenity of Hamoa Beach. Coming back from the beach we stopped at the Hana Food Trucks to grab dinner. There are a lot of great options and we chose Pad Thai from Ae’s Thai Kitchen.
This was truly an all-day adventure. We hit the road at 7:30 a.m. and didn’t pull grab dinner until close to 4:30 PM. Also, coming from Kula instead of Kihei or West Maui shortened our drive. We were staying two nights in Hana meaning we didn’t have to rush. I know many folks go to Hana and back in one day. However, we enjoyed not being in a hurry and getting to take our time at each stop. If you’re tackling the Road to Hana as a one-day trip, know you’ll need to be selective. With so much to see and do, it’s impossible to hit every stop unless you have time to linger.
Day 6: Kipahulu District
We started our day back at the Hana Food Trucks, grabbing a local brew from Da Mean Bean to wake us up. With coffee in hand, we headed straight to Wailua Falls and arrived at 9:00 AM. Most travelers haven’t even reached Halfway to Hana yet at this hour, so we had the waterfall to ourselves. That peaceful solitude made the 80-foot waterfall even more magical. The sound of the water, the mist in the air, and the crystal-clear pool below made for a perfect morning dip.
A few miles down the road, we arrived at the entrance for the Kīpahulu District of Haleakalā National Park. Unlike the summit district of Haleakalā, the Kīpahulu District sits at sea level and offers an entirely different experience. Instead of volcanic craters and alpine views, you are greeted by lush rainforests, waterfalls, and coasts. There’s no road connecting the two districts through the park, the only way to reach Kīpahulu is by driving the Road to Hāna. If you’ve already paid for entry at the summit district of Haleakalā National Park, that same admission is valid for Kīpahulu within three days. Hold on to your receipt!
Our first stop in the park was the ʻOheʻo Gulch. It’s a large ravine with cascading waterfalls and pools that flow into the ocean. The pools have also been called the Seven Sacred Pools. The old name was a marketing technique by Hana hotel owners. You cannot swim in the pools, but you can appreciate their beauty.
From there, we set off on the Pipiwai Trail, a 4-mile round trip hike. We hiked through the rainforest and past a massive 100-year-old banyan tree. As we continued, the trail led us through an unbelievable bamboo forest. The bamboo stretched skyward like green skyscrapers, and they creaked as the breeze rustled them. All of it to see the majestic Waimoku Falls, a towering 400-foot waterfall that plunges down a sheer cliff face. It took us about 3.5 hours to complete the trail. We aren’t the fastest hikers, plus we took a few breaks for snacks.
On our way back into Hana we stopped again at the food trucks. This time we tried out Poke Bob and Capt Sam’s Fish & Chips. The fresh poke bowl and crispy fish were just what we needed after the hike.
Spent the late afternoon relaxing at the black sand beach of Waiʻānapanapa State Park. To visit, you must have a reservation. Reservations open up 30 days in advance and requires selecting a time slot. There are four different time slots: 7:00-10:00 AM, 10:00-12:30 PM, 12:30-3:00 PM, 3:00-600 PM. You must arrive within 30 minutes of the beginning of you time slot. We cut it close and rolled up just before 3:30 PM. It was marvelous to sit on the black sand beach watching the waves crash against the shore.
Wrapped the day with a delicious dinner at Hana Ranch Restaurant around 6:30 PM. We struck up a conversation with a gentleman at the table next to us. He shared how he may have overdone it by packing in too many stops on the Road to Hana including hiking the Pipiwai Trail. He was grabbing dinner before making the 2+ hour drive back to Kihei…in the dark. It was a reminder of just how ambitious this journey can be if you're trying to do it all in one day. We appreciated spending two nights in Hana. It gave us the time to slow down, soak it in, and avoid the stress of a nighttime drive on one of the most winding roads in the world.
Day 7: One Last Look at Hana Before Heading West
Another benefit to staying in Hana is being able to enjoy the 7:00 to 10:00 AM time slot at Waiʻānapanapa. We hiked the coastal trail to a blowhole, explored the lava tube, and stood in awe at the natural sea arch. The morning light made the black sand beach and jagged coastline feel otherworldly. The beach was not nearly as crowded as it had been the day before.
We weren’t done with Hana yet and we weren’t done with the Hana Food Trucks. The early morning beach visit meant we had missed out on coffee. We needed to fuel up at Da Mean Bean before heading over to Koki Beach.
The deep red sands of Koki Beach come from the cinder cone hill named the “Bones of Pele”. Pele, the Hawaiian goddess of volcanoes, fought her final battle against the goddess of the ocean. We didn’t even think about swimming at this beach because the rip tides and waves are not to be messed with here. After a walk along the shore, it was time to set out on our road trip from Hana to West Maui.
We made two sweet stops. First, we stopped at Hana Gold Chocolate. We sampled handcrafted chocolate made from cacao grown right on the farm. Hana Gold is one of Hawaii’s first cacao plantations.
Then came a scoop of lilikoi ice cream at Coconut Glen’s. You cannot miss this place, the psychedelic 1970s bus is parked out front. I wasn’t sure what to expect from a vegan coconut-based ice cream, but it was mind-blowingly good.
Along one of those tight turns on the Hana Hwy you will find a small parking lot for the Ke‘anae Arboretum. We had originally tried to stop here on the way to Hana, but had to skip it because we couldn’t find parking. Coming back we were able to stop. The garden is six acres of timber, ornamental, and food plants from all over the tropics. They were planted at this location in the 1970s to provide an educational display for Hawaii’s residents and visitors. The Arboretum is a self-guided tour and is free to visit. The 30 min stroll around the grounds was worth it. You get to see rainbow eucalyptus, ti leaf, and taro. If you are running short on time or cannot find a parking spot, you can probably skip this location, especially if you already visited the Garden of Eden Arboretum.
Ventured down a bumpy access road to Honomanu Bay. It’s a hidden bay framed by jungle-covered cliffs. It wasn’t the easiest spot to reach, but it was a lovely view. Don’t forget your shoes in the car, even though there is some black sand, much of this beach is made of small rocks.
Arrived in Paia around 2:30 PM and grabbed a late lunch at Paia Fish Market. It’s a local institution that first opened in 1989 and has been serving up fresh seafood ever since. I had the Ono with a Maui Brewing Bikini Blonde Lager, and Amanda enjoyed the salmon plate. It’s a casual, counter-service spot with good portions and we enjoyed the flavors.
We arrived at our VRBO in Kaanapali around 5:30. Our third-floor balcony was right on the water. Perfect for spotting sea turtles swimming below us, and wonderful for watching sunsets. We had dinner at Maui Brewing Company. I got the fish tacos and Amanda enjoyed a flatbread. Enjoyed the Lahaina Town Brown Ale and their rich Coconut Porter. Days 8-11 of our trip will be spent on West Maui.
